The Use Of Scents, Perfumes And Fragrances Through History

by Josephine Lim

Due to advances in organic chemistry, new perfumery scents were produced in late 19th century. As we all know, the 19th century was the first genuine era of perfume. Certain exclusive and expensive ingredients which were used in perfumes were rare, and therefore replaced by synthetic perfumery products. Advancements in chemical knowledge also helped in the development of textile printing dyes at the same time.

For many thousands of years, the oils, perfumes and unguents have been in use in varying amounts depending on fashion whims. Perfumed balms were a part of early Egyptian culture as they used it in religious ceremonies and the use extended later on to preparations for pre-love making intimacies. For scenting the surroundings in rituals, Myrrh and Frankincense were used which were exuded gums in their original form.

Various other plants were steeped in different oils for producing perfumed unguent. Some examples of these plants are peppermint, roses, and various herbs such as bergamot, mint etc. The produced unguent was used to rub on skin. Interestingly, as we are getting more and more into high class aromatherapy fragrant oils, our ancestors did the same.

A perfume is typically made from 78% to 95% of pure perfume which is a denatured ethyl alcohol, while the other 5 to 22% are essential oils. A costlier form of fragrance is known as perfume. Generally a perfume contains 22% essential oils. EDP or Eau de Parfum comes next with 15% to 22% essential oils. With between 8% and 15% oils, Eau de Toilette or EDT comes next. A weakened form of Eau de Cologne has only about 4% essential oils. And finally, the lightest fragrance dilution is Eau Fraiche with only 1 to 3% of essential oils.

Major categories of fragrance are: Ylang-Ylang, vanilla, sandalwood, rose, pine, orris, neroli, magnolia, lily, lemon, jasmine, germanium, frankincense, cedar wood, bergamot, anise, violet, tuberose, sage, raspberry, patchouli, orange, moss, lily of the valley, lilac, lavender, iris, gardenia, eucalyptus, cardamom, bay leaf etc.

The early Christianity era resulted in perfumes being somewhat out of favor and use. However, they were back by the medieval period. So much so that scents were used on various objects including fans, furniture, gloves etc. Eau de colognes came into existence in the Georgian era that were non greasy and were used for a variety of things including mouth washes as well as bath essences.

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